Helene Ravlich: Local Fashion - of course it’s vintage!

I pride myself on buying timeless pieces and supporting New Zealand designers as much as I can, but we could all do with taking a little extra time over our purchases and opting for quality over quantity, every time.

And it goes without saying that buying brand new is the least sustainable shopping method, so if you’re serious about making some changes to your wardrobe, perhaps it’s time to investigate pre-loved options.

Millions and millions of items of clothing end up in landfill every week around the world. We know those items won’t all be salvageable - or even wearable - but the ever-increasing volume of rubbish on the planet is causing accelerated climate change.

For starters, the process of making garments from scratch can be hugely polluting and planet-damaging. From the gallons of water needed to grow cotton, the pollution that comes from chemicals required to make synthetic fabrics and the toxic dyes that end up in waterways and eco-systems... If there’s something already in existence that you can wear, why buy new? Whether you want to call it vintage, pre-loved or just plain old second-hand, it’s definitely an option open to us all going forward that could have a significant impact on the health of our planet for future generations.

Preternaturally stylish local Melanie Roger, owner of Melanie Roger Gallery, is passionate about vintage, first falling for its charms as a teenager at Onehunga High School in the 80s. “There were great op shops then,” she says, “and although I took a bit of a break from it as an adult, my love has returned with a vengeance in the last four years.”

She adds that “a lot of what I like is less second-hand now, and more specialised vintage”, and local Di Ludwig from Welcome Back Slow Fashion is the gallerist’s go-to for many of her most significant pieces.

“She runs a fantastic Instagram sales account and is always happy to let me visit and fossick around,” says Melanie, who adds that Search and Destroy is also definitely worth a look. “My daughter and her friends are regulars at Search and Destroy too, and Tatty's is always a good spot to pick up more recent, second-hand designer pieces.”

When I ask Melanie for any tips she would give someone who wants to make the change to more pre-loved and less fast fashion, she echoes the sentiments of many a vintage fan in saying that setting aside serious browsing time is essential.

“Give yourself time, and try on things even if you think they might not be the right size,” she says, “and this is particularly relevant for older pieces as sizes have changed a lot over the years.”

I’ve heard from others that it’s essential to ignore the size on the label, too. Vintage sizing can vary enormously, so if you can't try on, check out the measurements. “Buy quality over quantity and learn how to look after clothes well,” adds Melanie, and being handy with a needle and thread won’t go amiss either.

When asked if she has a favourite piece - and why – she says her favourites are always dresses, jumpsuits and coats. “I think I’m a lazy dresser - these are easy to just pop on (usually with a pair of boots) and you're done!”

So with all of the above in mind, it’s clear that you’ll need to set aside some time to make the most of a vintage or pre-loved shop visit. The antithesis to fast fashion, proper pre-loved shopping takes time and dedication.

If you know exactly what you're after, shopping online is best, but hunting for second-hand gems in store can be time-consuming but tons of fun. I say make a day of it!

Some of the neighbourhood’s top destinations for great pre-loved fashion:

Tatty’s, 161 Ponsonby Road
Established in 2006 by Aimee Egdell, Tatty's is a female-run, owner operated consignment fashion business that is so popular it has grown to several branches (check out Little Tatty’s at 78 Ponsonby Road, and Tatty’s High Street at 41 High Street in the CBD). Having grown up in the second-hand fashion industry, Aimee's focus has always been to provide an alternative mode of consumption with sustainability and individuality at its core, and with over 10,000 items instore and online, Tatty's has a curated range to interest all.

Search and Destroy, 80 Ponsonby Road
Previously called The Cross Street Market, Search and Destroy is known for its great vintage denim and rock’n’roll vibe, as well as French, Japanese and New Zealand workwear, vintage homewares and pottery.

Moral Fibre, 63 Ponsonby Road
Moral Fibre is another hugely popular pre-loved store, and known for its well curated collection of vintage and designer recycled pieces. As well as some great luxury brands, at Moral Fibre you’ll find upcycled pieces that have been totally transformed by co-owner, Lisette Mayson. From the age of 11 she was buying clothes from op shops (much to her mother’s initial horror), taking them home and remaking them into something cooler, and now her bespoke vintage and recycled leather jackets are collector’s items designed to turn heads everywhere they go.

Scottie’s Recycle, 2 Blake Street
The pre-loved arm of the beautifully curated designer store of the same name, Scottie’s Recycle is renowned for its quality pieces from names like Chanel, Prada and Marni. You can rest assured that everything is in impeccable condition, with many pieces barely worn and just a couple of seasons old.

Encore Designer Fashion Recycle, 305 Ponsonby Road
Surely a Ponsonby icon, Encore Designer Recycle has been helping the planet by recycling for over 40 years and they definitely know their stuff! A high percentage of their business is from repeat customers and referrals, and their store boasts one of the best selections of new and used fashion in New Zealand.

Mercy Hospice store, 346 Ponsonby Road
After a number of years the well-known local Mercy Hospice shop located at in Three Lamps in Ponsonby Road has recently moved to its new abode, and luckily, it’s just a short stroll down the road to 346 Ponsonby Road. It regularly stocks up with donations of designer labels from all the well known fashion brands.

Boutique for SPCA, 27 Ponsonby Road
With some seriously great window displays and an eye for designer pieces, the Boutique for SPCA opened relatively recently on Ponsonby Road but has already become a go-to for many pre-loved shoppers. And as well as helping the planet by contributing to a more circular society, shopping at Boutique for SPCA stores also contributes to the wellbeing of animals New Zealand-wide. (HELENE RAVLICH)